Check that your mobile device is on the list of supported devices on the Red Sea website. If it is listed but the app still crashes, uninstall and reinstall the app, then sign in again with your username and password. If that doesn’t help, contact customer support.

First confirm the device’s own Wi-Fi works by using Offline Direct Mode. If that works, try connecting to a phone’s hotspot in the same room (Device Manager > Device Line menu > About > Connect). If neither works, the problem is usually the router’s signal, configuration or load:
• Make sure the router’s signal is strong and stable exactly where the device sits – you may need a Wi-Fi extender nearer the aquarium.
• The router may already have too many devices connected.
• The router may be set not to allow devices like these (common in offices) – check with your IT professional.

This usually means a power cut, internet outage or router problem has interrupted the connection to the ReefBeat cloud; your device keeps running its settings in the meantime. Check your power and Wi-Fi – the notification clears once it reconnects. If your router isn’t permanently online, set the aquarium to Offline (Homepage > Main Menu > My Aquariums > Device Line Menu > Offline).

Your aquarium is set to Offline. Set it to Online: Homepage > Main Menu > My Aquariums > Device Line Menu > Edit Aquarium > Online.

Check that notifications are enabled in the app (Homepage > Notifications > Settings) and that your aquarium is set to Online so it can reach you when you’re away. Also make sure your phone’s own settings allow notifications from the ReefBeat App.

Check your aquarium’s time zone (and, on ReefControl Power, the Daylight Saving Time toggle): Homepage > Main Menu > My Aquariums > Device Line Menu > Edit Aquarium > Aquarium Time Zone. If the time zone is wrong, schedules run offset from your local time.

A short press of the Manual Control button silences it. A parameter alarm also clears on its own once the reading returns to the Acceptable range; to stop a parameter alarm in future, turn off the audible alarm for that probe or sensor. A leak alarm has its own distinct sound – check for and clear the leak. (ReefControl Pro/Lite has the audible alarm; ReefControl Power signals danger-range parameters by app notification only.)

Check that the connector is fully seated in the ReefSense port connector cable with the securing nut closed. Set up only one new probe or sensor of a given type at a time. If it still isn’t found, close and reopen the ReefBeat App to refresh. On a ReefControl Pro/Lite, also check you haven’t reached the maximum number of probes for your model – 2 on Lite, 4 on Pro, or up to 7 on a Pro with the ReefSense 4 port expander. (The ReefSense Temperature Probe on ReefControl Power connects to the Data Port instead – see Temperature Probe.)

Close and reopen the ReefBeat App. This refreshes the system and lets it detect newly connected probes that haven’t been set up yet.

Gently wiggle the probe to release air bubbles trapped against the sensing element, make sure the tip is fully immersed in good flow, and check it hasn’t dried out or become fouled. Give a freshly placed probe a little time to settle. See your probe’s own section for specifics.

Clean the probe and check it sits in good flow with the sensing element fully immersed. If it still looks off, recalibrate it (pH and Salinity) or validate it (ORP). Temperature probes aren’t calibrated – use Temperature adjustment to align them. See your probe’s own section.

Check that you selected the exact solution you’re using in the app and that the solution is fresh – old or contaminated solution gives a false result, so use a fresh sachet and never pour used solution back into the bottle. Clean and rinse the probe and try again. If it still won’t pass, the sensing element may have reached the end of its life and needs replacing.

No. Each ReefSense probe stores its own calibration data, so it keeps its calibration wherever you connect it.

Most aquarium temperature sensors are accurate to about 0.5 °C (1 °F), and ReefSense readings are rounded to the nearest 0.1°, so small differences are normal. To align a reading, use Temperature adjustment (Temp Adjustment) in that probe’s or sensor’s settings.

That’s normal – readings taken in Remote mode aren’t recorded to the logs, so they don’t affect your trends. Check that remote use is enabled and that the probe is powered through the ReefSense USB-C connector.

Check that the controlling probe or sensor is connected and set up – to a ReefControl Pro/Lite’s ReefSense port, or to ReefControl Power’s Data Port or its paired controller. If the probe or sensor is lost or disconnected, the port or socket switches to the fallback state you chose (ON or OFF). Reconnect it and check the connection.

A new port stays Always Off until you set it up, so check its control setting. If it’s on a schedule or controlled by a probe or sensor, confirm the current time or reading should have it on. Check that the intensity isn’t set to 0 %, that the device is within the 18 W limit, and that it’s connected securely.

Check the intensity setting for that port in the app (0-100 %); set it to 100 % for full power. Note that some DC devices don’t run smoothly on the PWM dimming the ports use to vary intensity.

The ports use the same connector as Red Sea’s ATO pumps, so a Red Sea pump connects directly. For any other device, use the 12 VDC accessory cable (R35839), which has a standard 5.5 x 2.5 mm DC jack; if that jack doesn’t suit your device, cut it off and wire the cable directly (red = positive, black = negative).

Set up the ReefControl Power in the app first, then connect it to the controller’s pairing port with the supplied cable and the securing nut fully closed. When pairing is complete, the controller’s ReefControl Power Status LED turns solid. See the ReefControl Power manual.

This usually means an overload was detected on that socket or on the unit as a whole. Check the device plugged into that socket for a fault, then tap Resume in the app (or press that socket’s pushbutton on the Control Panel) to restore it.

No. The ReefSense ATO Sensor relies on the electrical conductivity typical of seawater to work, so it isn’t suitable for freshwater systems.

Yes – the external magnets are waterproof and can be used inside the sump.

Fit the siphon breaker if the outlet of the ATO feed tube sits below the water surface of the reservoir. It then prevents the water left in the tube after the pump stops from siphoning the rest of the reservoir into the sump.

The arrow on the siphon breaker should point in the direction of water flow through the tube.

Red Sea doesn’t currently offer a pump extension cable. If you do extend it, pay attention to the polarity of the wires. Note that locating the reservoir far from the sump will significantly reduce the pump’s flow rate.

The ReefControl Pro/Lite can operate a 12 VDC normally-closed solenoid with a maximum draw of 800 mA. Connect it with the 12 VDC accessory cable (R35839). Install it as you would the ATO Module, set the tube height in the app to at least 2 m (to ensure a 12 VDC signal), and measure the actual flow rate so the Top-off log is meaningful.

Always set the tube height to zero (0) when the reservoir is above the sump. This affects both the pump-speed / flow-rate calculation for the Top-off log and the reservoir volume monitor.

Yes. The reservoir volume monitor only gives you about a day’s notice before the reservoir may run out, based on average usage. Because it’s an approximation it has no effect on the Auto-Fill, which keeps running as long as the pump is under water.

If you can’t stop the manual fill from the app, press the pump button on the device to stop the pump. If you’re not next to the device, the timeout safety feature shuts the pump down automatically.

The ReefControl Pro/Lite pauses the Auto-Fill (disabling the pump) if it detects any of four states: the reservoir is empty (dry), the pump impellor can’t rotate freely (stalled), the pump isn’t connected properly (missing), or the pump runs much longer than normal (timeout). The app shows which one. Resolve it as appropriate – add water to the reservoir, clear any blockage in the pump impellor chamber, check the pump cable isn’t damaged and is connected, or check the sensor is properly seated in its holder and the mounting bracket hasn’t moved – then press Resume in the app, or briefly press the manual pump button on the controller, to restore normal operation.

It’s a safety feature to prevent uncontrolled overfilling. The controller tops the sump up based on the small height difference between the pump-on and pump-off pins, so the pump-on time is normally consistent. The pump times out and shuts off automatically if it runs long enough to raise the level by about 2.5 cm (1 inch). This can happen if the sensor isn’t seated properly, or after tank maintenance or a water change that lowered the total water volume. Press Resume in the app, or briefly press the manual pump button, to continue filling (this also switches the pump back on).

The controller uses an average pump-on time to set the timeout. If you’ve moved the sensor or run several short test fills, the stored average may be lower than you actually need. Use Reset pump monitors in the app to reset the average and restore normal operation; the timeout then adjusts to your actual average pump-on time. (Default timeout is 3 minutes; minimum is 1 minute.)

Use Check sump water level (Homepage > ATO Settings > More settings). If the level is below the sensor, add saltwater manually, pressing GO now and then to update the on-screen water level.

Yes. The siphon breaker has a small air hole that breaks the siphon when the pump stops. While the pump runs, an insignificant amount of water escapes from it; if it’s positioned correctly, that water flows back into the reservoir.

The siphon breaker must sit above the water level in the reservoir.

Two common causes: air or a foreign object trapped in the pump impeller chamber causes a rattling noise, and the reservoir can resonate where the pump touches it. Stand the pump upright and keep it clear of the reservoir walls.

The volume calculation uses the exact pump on-time and an estimated flow rate, which may not be precise. For more accurate usage data, measure the actual flow rate and enter it in the app.

You’ll need a stopwatch, a vessel of about 1 litre and a kitchen scale (it’s easier with two people and takes a few minutes). Note the empty vessel’s weight, or zero (tare) the scale with the vessel on it. With the reservoir and pump in their normal positions, the tubing cut to length, and the tube height and length set correctly in the app, hold the tube outlet at its normal height. Press the manual pump button and wait for a steady flow. Start the stopwatch and put the vessel under the flow at the same moment; remove it after exactly 15 seconds, then release the button to stop. Weigh the vessel with the water. To get the flow rate in litres per minute, multiply the water weight in grams by 4 and divide by 1000.

Disable the Auto-Fill toggle in the app.

It’s only an approximate guide. There are two “desired range” graphics: one shows the level exactly between the pump-on and pump-off pins; the other shows it anywhere between the pump-off pin and the back-up pump-off pin. Just after a fill, the level only just covers the pump-off pin but shows as the higher desired level. Roller filters such as ReefMat raise the level slightly each time the fleece advances; switching off a skimmer or the return pump raises it and shows as “above”. If it shows “below” for more than a minute, check that Auto-Fill is toggled On.

Check that the sensor sits vertically in its holder with your target level between the pump-on and pump-off pins, and that the pump’s port or socket is set to be controlled by the ATO Sensor. Wipe the sensor pins if they’re fouled with salt or biofilm, which can disturb the level reading.

Make sure the tube outlet sits above the maximum sump level, fit a siphon break if the reservoir can rise higher than the outlet, and set the pump’s port or socket fallback to OFF. For built-in run-dry and time-out protection plus a siphon breaker, use the ReefControl ATO Module.

Used on its own, the ATO Sensor switches the pump by level only and doesn’t monitor your reservoir. Keep the reservoir topped up and check the system regularly. The full ReefControl ATO Module adds run-dry protection.

The sensing element drifts slowly as it ages, so recalibrate about monthly for a reef tank. Check the glass membrane is clean and hasn’t dried out. If the reading is still off after a fresh calibration with fresh solution, the probe may be nearing the end of its life.

Wiggle the probe to release air bubbles against the glass membrane, make sure the tip is fully immersed in good flow, and check it hasn’t dried out. Persistent instability can also be caused by stray electrical voltage in the water – a ReefControl Titanium Grounding Probe (R35828) often resolves this.

No – this is correct. A solution’s pH changes slightly with temperature, and the probe reports the solution’s true pH at its current temperature. The pH 10 solution reads a little above 10.00 when it’s cooler than 25 °C (about 10.06 at 20 °C); pH 7 barely changes.

A daily swing of about 0.1-0.3 pH is normal in a healthy reef. If it’s larger, look at your alkalinity, aeration and room CO₂ rather than the probe – and widen your Acceptable range so the normal rhythm doesn’t trigger alerts.

The pH Probe is a wear part (6-month warranty). When the app flags it, plan to replace the probe so your readings stay reliable.

The most common cause of a transient or lasting drop is microfauna – snails or worms – settling inside the conductivity cell. Fitting the ReefSense snail guard (R35853) reduces this; clean the guard and probe regularly to keep the cell clear.

Give a new probe about a week to settle, then calibrate it. If readings drift later, recalibrate – especially after cleaning, which can slightly change the conductivity cell.

That’s expected – removing deposits slightly changes the conductivity cell. Recalibrate after cleaning.

The unit is fixed when you add the probe. To change it, delete the probe from the app and add it again, selecting the new unit. (The Manual reading screen always shows all three units regardless of the setting.)

Persistently low ORP often reflects the tank itself – insufficient skimming, overfeeding or detritus build-up – so check those first. Also make sure the probe is clean and in good flow with the sensing tip immersed. If it still looks off, clean the probe and re-validate it.

The sensing element ages with use, so some slow drift is normal. Validate the probe about every two months and apply the offset. If it won’t come within 30 mV of your reference solution even after repeated cleaning, the probe has reached the end of its life and should be replaced. (The ORP Probe is a wear part with a 6-month warranty.)

New ORP probes take time to settle. Make sure the sensing tip is clean, fully immersed and hasn’t dried out, and give it time to stabilise before validating. Remember ORP is best read as a trend, so small movements are normal.

Yes – that’s the most common use. Set the ozonizer’s port or socket to be controlled by the ORP Probe and choose a switching level, with a sensible maximum so ozone doesn’t push ORP too high.

Check the probe’s lead is fully seated in the Data Port. The Data Port takes one connection at a time – if the Control Panel or a ReefControl Pro/Lite is using it, connect the probe to the Control Panel’s Data Port instead, or set it up through the connected ReefControl Pro/Lite.

Check the connector is fully seated in the ReefSense port connector cable with the securing nut closed. If it still isn’t found, close and reopen the app to refresh.

Use Temperature adjustment in the probe’s settings: enter your reference thermometer’s reading and the app aligns the two. Use Reset Temperature to return to the factory calibration.

Yes. Delete it from the device it’s on, reconnect it to the other device, and add it again in the app.

Make sure the tip is fully immersed in good flow and isn’t buried in detritus, and give a freshly placed probe a little time to settle.

Move it away from normal splashes, condensation and salt creep, and wipe off any dampness or salt build-up – a damp or salty film can bridge the pins. Stand it upright, pins down, at the lowest point where genuine spills would collect.

Check it’s standing upright with the pins pointing down at the lowest point where water actually collects, that leak detection is switched on in the app, and that the pins are clean. For better coverage, add a second detector at another likely spot.

A short press of the ReefControl Pro/Lite’s Manual Control button silences it. The leak alarm has its own distinct sound, so check for and clear the leak, then dry the detector.

Check the connector is fully seated in the ReefSense port connector cable with the securing nut closed, and add only one new detector at a time. If it still isn’t found, close and reopen the app to refresh.